Gemstone Guide

Practically speaking, gemstones are natural or lab created materials that have been cut and polished for use in jewellery. In a custom engagement or wedding ring, your precious gemstone becomes something worn often and lived with over time, becoming a romantic symbol of  your relationship. Since it’ll be facing the daily pressures of your everyday life, it’s important that your gemstone is something durable, while still staying true to who you are.
This gemstone guide is for those exploring custom jewellery and wanting a clearer sense of how gemstones compare. We focus on visual differences, durability, pricing considerations, and how design choices affect the finished ring, so that you can choose your perfect stone with confidence.

Gemstone Identification Guide

Precious and semi precious stones can be used as centre stones or accent stones. Depending on their properties, they can add sparkle and individuality to your ring.

In our custom work at Alexis Gallery, centre stones usually fall into a small number of categories. The first are colourless stones, typically diamonds, which remain the most familiar option and are available as lab grown or earth mined.

The second are coloured gemstones, with sapphires selected most often due to their durability and range of colours – think light blue sapphires, pink sapphires, and yellow sapphires for example.

When comparing gemstones, three practical considerations tend to guide the process. Appearance shapes the initial impression through colour, sparkle, and inclusions. Durability affects how the stone performs over time.

Suitability helps determine whether a gemstone works best as a centre stone or is better reserved for accent use.

Gemstone Spotlights

Diamonds

Description

Diamonds are known for their symbolism and familiarity, which keeps them central to engagement ring design. At Alexis Gallery, we work with  earth mined and lab grown diamonds (which are visually identical), allowing the choice to rest on values and budget rather than appearance. Both options offer the same optical performance.


Jeweller’s Tip: If you’re looking for a diamond with more personality, note that black, grey and salt & pepper diamonds currently are only earth mined.

Origin

Lab Grown: Lab grown diamonds are created using advanced technology in controlled environments. Using HPHT or CVD technology, the diamonds ‘grow’ in a lab.

Earth Mined: Diamond mines are located around the world – there are even notable mines located in Canada.

Our earth mined diamonds are sourced through vetted, multi-generational partners that meet our standards for responsible practices and transparency. Canada has some of the strictest diamond importing regulations in the world. 

Colour Range

From colourless (white) to warm yellow, champagne, pink, blue and even green, grey, black, and brown.

Care

Diamonds rank a 10 on the Mohs scale and are well suited to daily wear. They handle regular use with minimal concern for scratching or chipping. Annual cleaning and tension checks are included with every ring we create.

Jeweller’s Tip: Even though diamonds are the strongest material on earth, certain cuts can have weak points. Ensure that corners on cuts like pears, marquise or princess cuts are always covered by prongs or bezels.

Sapphires

A deep blue pear sapphire set sideways with pear and round accent stones in yellow gold band

Description

Sapphires are durable gemstones available in colours ranging from blue and teal to green and peach, and even white gemstones with opalescent hues! They are a beautiful stone for those drawn to colour without sacrificing longevity. Their look tends to feel more layered and deep than high-sparkle stones like diamonds.

Origin

We offer sapphires in both lab created and earth mined options through our ethical supplier partners.

Lab Grown: Lab grown sapphires are created in a controlled laboratory environment.

Earth Mined: Mined sapphires come from mines around the world – most notably, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Thailand and Australia.

When working with Alexis Gallery, each stone is selected individually rather than pulled from standard inventory, which allows us to track down the perfect ‘unicorns’ in tone, saturation and shape.

Colour Range

Blue, purple, teal, pink, yellow, orange with intensities ranging from deep and rich, to light and watery.

Jeweller’s Tip: If you love consistent colour, lab grown sapphires offer rich, vivid hues at a great value. If you favour nuance and unique colour variation (hello bi-colour), earth mined sapphires are for you.

Care

With a hardness of 9, sapphires perform well as centre stones. They handle regular wear comfortably and benefit from routine maintenance.

Rubies

A oval, rose cut ruby in a bezel set yellow gold band

Description

Rubies are prized for their rich pinkish to purplish red colour, which ranges from deep crimson to warmer, slightly pink-toned reds. They carry a strong visual presence and are often chosen for designs that feel bold, expressive, and enduring. Like sapphires, rubies belong to the corundum family, which gives them both beauty and strength.

Origin

Lab Grown: Lab grown rubies are created in a controlled laboratory environment.

Earth Mined: Earth mined rubies come from around the world, namely Myanmar (Burmese rubies) known for their ‘pigeon blood red’ appearance, Mozambique and Sri Lanka. Each stone is selected for colour quality and overall balance rather than uniformity. Natural variation is part of what gives mined rubies their character and depth.

Colour Range

Red, pink, brownish ranging from intense to dark.

Care

Rubies rank a 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, making them well suited to engagement rings and regular wear. They hold up well over time with proper care. Routine checkups help ensure prongs and settings continue to protect the stone.

Emeralds

An art deco inspired ring with an elongated cushion cut emerald with clear round side stones set in yellow gold

Description

Emeralds are valued for their vivid green colour and natural inclusions, known as ‘Jardin’ which give each stone a distinct character. These features are part of what defines an emerald and are usually embraced rather than hidden. Emeralds suit designs that prioritize individuality.

Origin

Lab Grown: Lab grown emeralds are created under a controlled laboratory environment. Lab grown emeralds are typically free of inclusions and capture a consistent rich green colour.


Earth Mined: Our ethically sourced mined emeralds often come from the country most renowned for their emerald mines, Columbia.

Colour Range

Green

Care

Emeralds fall between 7.5 and 8 on the Mohs hardness scale and require a more considered approach to wear. Protected settings help reduce exposure to impact, but wearing more occasionally is recommended. Regular checkups also support long-term stability.

Alexandrite

A marquise cut alexandrite with two kite cut clear stones on the sides, set in white metal

Description

Alexandrite is known for its extremely rare colour-change effect, shifting between greenish tones in daylight and red or purplish hues under warmer light. A common phrase ‘emerald by day, ruby by night’ captures it perfectly. This quality gives the stone a sense of movement and complexity that feels quietly striking rather than flashy. It is one of the rarest gemstones available and is often chosen by those drawn to subtle uniqueness rather than immediate boldness.

Origin

Lab Grown: Lab grown alexandrite is created under a controlled laboratory environment. Lab grown alexandrite’s colour leans more purple in nature.

Earth Mined: Earth mined alexandrite is very rare and sourced in very limited quantities. The most notable mines historically have been in Russia, Brazil and Sri Lanka.

Colour Range

Green, Red, blue, purple – colour changing.

Care

Alexandrite has good durability, ranking around 8.5 on the Mohs hardness scale. It can be worn regularly with thoughtful setting design that offers protection from impact. Periodic inspections help maintain long-term security and wearability.

Gemstone Pricing Guide

Gemstone pricing isn’t built around a single factor. The type of stone, how rare it is, and the quality of its cut all play a part, and size on its own doesn’t tell the full story. Colour can have a bigger impact than size, especially with sapphires and other coloured gemstones, where tone and consistency can make a noticeable difference.

Timeless colours (think Princess Diana blue sapphire or Pigeon Red ruby) will always have a premium, but trends can play a big role as well. In the past decade, alternative colours that would have been deemed ‘less than’ to past generations are now some of the most coveted options with brides and grooms embracing individuality.

Lab created and earth mined stones follow different pricing paths, typically lab grown comes in as the more affordable option.

Put simply, rarer stones and distinctive colours can increase costs, and every gemstone sits on a range depending on its individual gemstone quality.

At Alexis Gallery, pricing is shaped by the exact stone you choose and the way your ring comes together through the custom process. We approach gemstone curation working backwards from your budget and bringing you the best options that keep you where you’re comfortable.

Gemstone Size Guide

Did you know that a one carat sapphire and a one carat diamond will look different? This is because the stone density is different. This illustrates how important it is to review millimeter dimensions as part of your ring research journey.

Gemstones are also typically cut deeper than diamonds to achieve a richer colour (more material can give a greater depth of colour), so consider the depth as you’re selecting your design. It’s also normal for gemstones to have more variation in their cutting styles than diamonds. Less symmetry and more ‘mixed cuts’ are the allure.

Engagement Ring Gemstone Buying Guide

Choosing a gemstone for an engagement ring usually starts with how the ring will be worn. Daily wear places different demands on a stone, and that alone can narrow the options quickly. From there, the focus shifts to what consistently draws your eye, whether that’s brilliance, colour, softness, or visible character.

Budget comes into the conversation as a practical boundary that shapes stone size, cut, and setting choices. Once those pieces are clearer, questions about sourcing tend to follow. We explain where stones come from, how lab grown and earth mined options are sourced, and what those differences mean in real terms, using actual stones to keep the conversation grounded.

Our role is to connect those choices to long-term wear. We flag gemstones that may struggle in an engagement ring setting and give you stronger options that still give you the look you’re going for. At the end of the day, we’re here to help you find a gemstone that feels like you and matches your lifestyle.