Long before a stone is set in a ring, a series of technical decisions determine its shape, size and character. Most people only see diamonds after they have already been cut and polished, not realizing that they all start life as a raw, rough looking rock.
Diamond cutting is the stage where a rough crystal becomes a finished gemstone. This unique process requires highly skilled artisans and high-tech machinery to achieve perfectly polished diamonds. The diamond roughs are assessed for the potential best output (ie. carat weight, shape, clarity) to maximize the material before cutting takes place. A lot of consideration, math and finesse take a piece of carbon from an unassuming rock to your sparkly finished diamond.
At Alexis Gallery, designing custom engagement rings begins with evaluating your vision for your centre stone. For certain clients, we discuss custom diamond cutting if a design calls for proportions, faceting patterns or desired shapes that fall outside of commonly available cuts. This conversation is part of the broader journey of designing a ring around a client’s ideas and preferences vs. something ready-made.
Diamond terminology can create confusion, particularly around the word “cut.” A clear understanding of these terms helps when reviewing stones or discussing design ideas.
Shape refers to the outline/perimeter shape of the stone. Round, oval, cushion, emerald, pear, radiant, and princess cut are familiar examples used in modern jewelry design.
Cut refers to the facet arrangement inside the diamond, which influences how light travels through the stone and reflects back to the naked eye, giving the stone its signature sparkle. Brilliant cut, step cut and rose cut are all examples of cut style.
As we consider custom cutting, we discuss both stone shape and stone cut to ensure the finished diamond or gemstone expresses exactly what you’re looking for.
Every rough diamond has a unique crystal structure. Natural form, internal inclusions, and growth patterns influence how the stone can be shaped.
Before cutting begins, specialists study the rough using imaging tools such as laser mapping and three-dimensional scanning. These tools reveal the internal structure of the crystal and allow cutters to evaluate possible cutting approaches.
From that analysis, a cutting plan is developed. The plan determines exactly how the diamond will be cut in order to maximize the rough material and quality of the finished diamond.
A rough crystal may yield multiple smaller diamonds or a single finished stone, depending on the structure of the material and the cutting strategy. During this stage cutters also evaluate potential carat weight, since it can have significant influence on how the rough is shaped. Even small changes in orientation can change the resulting carat size.
Most diamonds follow established cutting formulas developed over many decades. These proportion sets are widely used for shapes such as round brilliant, oval, cushion, and emerald cuts.
The formulas provide reliable light performance while making practical use of the rough crystal, which is why they are common throughout the industry.
Custom diamond cutting may be considered when a custom engagement ring requires proportions, shape or faceting patterns that differ from these standard formulas.
If you’ve been on the hunt for a really specific or unique diamond – what we sometimes refer to as a ‘unicorn’, custom cutting may be exactly what you need.
How custom cutting works at Alexis Gallery
Diamond cutting typically unfolds in multiple stages:
Depending on the complexity of the stone, this work may take many hours or several days.
If you have a very specific idea for your centre stone, and just can’t find ‘the one’, custom cutting might be for you. It allows us to remove any restrictions on what’s possible, be it mixing unconventional cuts and diamond shapes, or achieving an unconventional stone ratio.
We will recommend custom cutting if we know it will bring your vision to life in the most effective way. Typically we will consider custom cutting for lab diamonds, lab gemstones and black diamonds.
When a diamond is cut for a specific project, the stone and the ring design are always considered together. We will always adjust your 3D digital renderings to perfectly hold your finished diamond – accounting for its precise measurements.
At Alexis Gallery, we review diamonds individually for each ring rather than working from a standing inventory. If you are considering a custom engagement ring, exploring the purchase of a diamond, or revisiting a family stone with its own history and story, we invite you to book a phone consultation. We are always happy to answer questions and help you find a direction that feels thoughtful and meaningful.
